If you are a traveler in Southeast Asia, you probably have already noticed the amount of trash everywhere. Plastic is the leader of all concerns, “decorating” beautiful jungles or otherwise pristine beaches. It’s hard to accept and a sad reality to embrace.
It can be very frustrating to go to Cambodian markets (or other markets in any Southeast Asia country), especially if you are an eco-lover person. The amount of plastic bags or containers used and soon thrown away is impressive! In Phnom Penh especially, plastic bags are one of the major causes of monsoon floods, clogging the street drains. For this reason, it is always refreshing to see local people concerned about this, dedicating their lives to them.
Here we share some of the inspiring projects happening in Cambodia regarding ecological or environmental matters!
Typical sight on a Phnom Penh street, the trash keeps pilling it up…
So if plastic bags are one of the main problems, let’s start by them! If you are passing by Phnom Penh, check Funky Junk Recycled, a social enterprise using plastic bags to create different products. Perfectly knitted, they become beautiful accessories and furniture for your home – with a social cause in mind. Focusing on the same kind of gorgeous products made of plastic bags but based in Siem Reap, the Rehash Trash project is also a must visit. You can buy their products next to the Green Gecko Project. This organization owns the project and supports street kids that used to live and beg on the street.
In order to raise awareness, there are some initiatives such as Clean Green Cambodia or the Green Night at Meta House. Held every month in this art space on Sothearos Boulevard in Phnom Penh, it’s an interesting event with talks, eco-movies and a fair trade market with products of different organizations with an ecological mindset. Plastic Free Cambodia provides trainings and workshops related to reducing plastic waste in organizations, schools and companies. They often organize challenges, like going one month without plastic, in order to sparkle the public’s creativity on finding solutions to live with less non-organic waste. Examples of this can be for instance:
- choosing re-usable food containers instead of styrofoam boxes
- using cloth bags to go to the market instead of asking new plastic bags
- drinking your coffee or cocktail without a plastic straw (or buying a bamboo straw, more on that later!)
- drinking from and re-filling a reusable water bottle or thermo instead of buying bottled water
- using re-usable cups instead of plastic ones for your morning coffee
There are some interesting companies in Cambodia that help you in this, such as the Chhlat startup that makes and sells reusable bottles. The biodegradable bags from Cleanbodia are another option. They are made with cassava so even in the nature they will totally dissolve after a few years. With the same concept in mind, EcoSense Cambodia produces different food containers, fully biodegradable. They are able to replace any styrofoam package normally available in the market! Also, if you really like drinking from a straw, why not buying a reusable one made with bamboo from Mekong Quilts (with shops in both Phnom Penh and Siem Reap). They even make bicycles with bamboo, how cool is that?!
And one of our favorites, with the motto “products that change lives”, Friends’n’stuff also has shops in both Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, selling from clothes to stationary, from souvenirs to accessories, from bags and wallets to home products. Everything is made with recyclable materials, such as old newspapers and magazines, car tires, cloth threads or old cutlery. If you buy their products, you support their programs with street children and marginalized families and communities. Moreover, they are one of the most well known and trusted NGOs in Cambodia.
With a totally different approach, doing very interesting projects on construction with a social and environmental mindset, Husk Cambodia in Siem Reap builds houses and schools using plastic bottles filled with trash inside, one of the most simple and effective ways to deal with trash! Exo Foundation is doing the same in Battambang area. Both can be interesting projects to visit in case you are passing in any of these cities.
We hope to give you some inspiration with the eco projects happening in Cambodia. They definitely bring us hope about the change in use and perception of consequences that plastic have over the environment. We all dream of a Southeast Asia without trash in its beautiful nature, don’t we? 🙂
Often in our travels we may start to have a kind of overwhelming feeling fading in, due to all the new places we see and new things we learn. We suddenly feel the need to stop somewhere for a longer time, build longer relationships and make friends that are not leaving in the next day. Perhaps this is just to have some time to think and digest all the experiences from our trip.
If this is your case, one decision that you may have been struggling is which kind of place to choose for this purpose. From a bigger city like Phnom Penh, with its many activities but at the same time more hectic lifestyle, to somewhere quiet and with less things to do, like Koh Rong Samloem or Koh Ta Kiev.
Well, maybe Kampot can be the perfect option. It is an alternative that stands in the middle and provides a relaxed environment as well as some events and activities. If you are looking for a place to stay longer and relax from your travels, have a look on some of our arguments to choose Kampot!
It is a sleepy town by the river, with some interesting venues in its center and surrounded by nature and beautiful mountains (for that check out our article on the Kampot’s surroundings). For instance, if you are up to starting your day with some exercise, have a look on the Yoga classes on Simple Things (classes every day except Wednesday) or in the Yoga @ Bantey Srey (which also supports their social enterprise project, delivering training and jobs to local women). If you are more of a couch type of athlete, check Ecran Cinema and Movie House with screenings at 4pm and 7.30pm. They also give you the possibility to rent your own movie room at the time you prefer and even host the Kampot Comedy Club from time to time.
With a four meters screen, this is the best place in town for watching interesting movies (besides the Khmer mainstream ones of the normal cinemas!)
On the cultural side, you have also Kampot Traditional Music School to learn more about Khmer culture and arts or watch a performance. Moreover, many bars in town host live music, namely the ones around the riverside or the Old Market area. Actually, Kampot is famous for its rock’n’roll bands such as Cambodia Space Project, Kampot Playboys or Bokor Mountain Magic Band. On Wednesday nights you can find an open mic at Magic Sponge guesthouse (8pm onwards), while on Fridays they host a quiz night (7pm onwards).
Alternatively, if your style is more staying at your guesthouse reading on the hammock, have a look at Bookish Bazaar, a highly pleasant café and bookshop with more than 7000 books available for sell or exchange. With the bonus of selling delicious and fresh bakery products, from italian delicacies to cookies and muffins. On the first floor they also have a gallery space hosting some exhibitions.
The entrance of the lovely Bookish Bazaar, more often than not with a tempting smell of recently baked goods (but that’s hard to photograph).
An interesting café is also Epic Arts. It not only provides delicious coffee but is also a social business, helping the local community with teaching skills and giving jobs to handicap youth. By the same organization, there’s also the Epic Creations shop with exquisite handicrafts and other products. A perfect place to find that perfect souvenir you are looking for.
The trendy Epic Creations shop.
Other great places for shopping are The Kampot Pepper Shop (don’t forget that it’s the main product from this area, considered by many people the best pepper in the world!) or Om fashion and organic shop for beautiful handmade clothes and special organic products such as moringa tree or cosmetics made with coconut oil. Check as well the vintage shop Kampot Head, housed in an old cinema from the sixties.
One of the cool remains of the Khmer architecture from the 60’s.
Have a look at the Night Market near the Durian roundabout (especially busy during evenings, where children flock to its tiny but quite kitschy amusement park). It is a funny place to spot locals and make new friends!
If you want to do some activities during the day you can also try the boat trips with the fisherman of the Trapangsangke Fishery Project (which supports the restoration of mangrove forest nearby Kampot). Alternatively, in the same social conscious mindset, you can volunteer at the Kep Garden Association and help their projects (English classes, skills training, among others). If, on the other hand, you are more a night person, head to Banyan Tree for their Friday parties and Naga House on Saturdays. Both guesthouses are on the other side of the river, a beautiful setting for dancing all night long, meet new people from the expat and traveler crowds or watching the sunrise by the river.
Hope we could give you some reasons why staying a bit longer in a charming and calm place like Kampot. It is definitely worth your time and will give back to you meaningful relationships with other like-minded people, in addition to time for you to digest all your traveling experiences… enjoy!
Slightly north of Phnom Penh a small mountain rises from the flat countryside with an outstanding collection of temples and pagodas, offering a beautiful view of the surroundings while breathing some truly fresh air. As a bonus, Oudong is less than one hour drive from the capital.
The view from the top of the mountain.
Sometimes written in English as Udong or Odong, this peaceful village is between 35 and 40 kms from Phnom Penh. Once it was the capital of the kingdom, from the beginning of the 17th century to 1866, and now is part of Kampong Speu province. To come here you can take any bus that follows the road to Battambang (for instance the one to Kampong Chhnang) and ask the driver to be dropped off in Oudong. On the main road you will see a large gate where you will have to turn left. No worries, many moto-taxis will certainly be there waiting for you!
The gate to turn left on the main road.
Following this road, you will reach the foothill of the Phnom Udong mountain, where the complex of temples is. To see what are the main things to visit, check the tourist information map at the entrance of the new main stupa, near all the restaurants and parking spaces.
The main stupa is built according to traditional Cambodian decorative motives (called kbach in Khmer) and houses many statues of Buddha inside. You can start here by climbing the 500 steps to the top to admire the stupa itself and the view of the surroundings the fresh breeze.
The new main stupa with its very kbach style of decorations.
When you come down again, take some time to stroll in the food stalls nearby. Here you can try different Khmer snacks such as grilled frogs, dry baby frogs or a sort of pickles made out of gigantic ants. Weird but delicious!
Around these hills you can also find the huge and gorgeous Wat Prasat Nokor Vimean Sour (which also houses a vipassana meditation center), the former Royal palace Veing Chase, a mausoleum with a tiny bone of Buddha, various stupas with remaining of previous kings such as Chedi Damrei Sam Poan, a handicraft village and the Arthaross temple (or what remains after the Khmer Rouge). Keep exploring to visit many more pagodas! Don’t miss the Chedi Trai Trang, with traditional four Cambodian faces on top. It really resembles the famous Bayon temple in Siem Reap.
The beautiful Wat Prasat Nokor Vimean Sour.
It’s a very pleasant one day trip from Phnom Penh, and an easy one to do. Just catch a bus or hire a taxi (both options available on Camboticket website) to explore the former royal capital of Cambodia. The many beautiful pagodas and incredible views of the countryside from the top of the Phnom Udong mountain are not to be missed. Definitely a weekend afternoon well spend!
Even being the third largest city in the country doesn’t take the sleepiness out of Kampong Cham: a town (slowly) living on the riverbank of the Mekong, home to a variety of ancient temples and the famous bamboo bridge. Kampong Cham is an interesting sight not so far away from Phnom Penh.
Peaceful life on the side of the river.
The best way to travel around here is renting a bicycle or a motorbike, being free to explore the surroundings. There you will find various temples from the old Khmer empire, of the same time or even before the Angkor Wat period. Check at least the Nokor Wat, from the 11th century, resembling the typical Angkorian architecture. Don’t miss also Phnom Hanchey, a nice hilltop temple with a beautiful view of the surroundings. One of our favourites is Wat Maha Leap, around 20km from Kampong Cham, one of the last wooden pagodas in the country. For the ones looking for more temples, there are Phrom Pros and Phnom Sray (literally men’s hill and women’s hill).
A quite serious but shiny Buddha from one of the city’s temples.
This was also domain of the Cham ethnic for some time, hence the city’s name. For this reason, you can still find a large Cham population here, the mosques and houses with their distinctly Arabic decoration. Besides that, the city is a pleasant combination of old colonial architecture from the French, modern Cambodian architecture and Chinese shop-houses. You will notice that it is quite clean and easy to walk compared to Phnom Penh.
Take some time to stroll along the pleasant riverside. Don’t miss the remainings of the famous Kampong Cham bamboo bridge, the longest of its kind in the world. It’s built from scratch every dry season for the locals to cross to Koh Paen, a small island in the Mekong. Then each year, during the rainy season the rising of the water level destroys it. It’s a monument to the ingenuity of Cambodian traditional engineering, but it is also able to hold incredible amounts of height, enabling even trucks to pass through. However, the government has just built a cement bridge, so this may be the last year the bamboo bridge is built. You can know more about this story in this article from Phnom Penh Post.
A man looking at the remaining of the bamboo bridge in both sides of the river.
Have a look at Koh Paen itself, a pretty and clean village where you can spot genuine Cambodian rural lifestyle. There’s also a beach for the ones looking for some sun and relaxing days on the sand. Check also the Khmer handicrafts in Cheung Kok ecotourism village close to the main town.
If you want to stay for a while, OBT Homestay and Bungalow, in Kampong Cham itself, is a great option. It’s an organization delivering training to local children. They use the money from their tourism program (from 5 to 20 dollars depending if you are staying with a local family or in your own private bungalow) to support their work.
Weird sculptures that you will find everywhere in Kampong Cham.
Indeed quite a pleasant city to visit for a couple of days! Kampong Cham is just 120 kms from Phnom Penh but has a very relaxed pace of life. Have a look on Camboticket website for options on how to get there from Phnom Penh or other Cambodian cities!
Despite having a mother, Theary grew up in many orphanages in Phnom Penh. She felt abandoned and missed her relationship with her mum. She was able to study until grade 5 at the orphanage, but after moving back home she wasn’t able to go to school as she kept moving houses, which eventually took her out of Phnom Penh and to a rural area.
When she moved back to Phnom Penh earlier last year she met an old lady who told her about Friends-International, where a new life chapter for her has begun:
“I felt relived once I walked into the center. I met staff who happily introduced themselves to me. It was when I gained all my hope once again to be someone better. I was offered a safe place to stay called a group home where I get to live with three other young girls from different trainings. I was guided around a busy center before I decided to choose the beauty training.”
“I couldn’t ask for a better opportunity in which everything is totally free for me. I could access all the necessary facilities during my training here, where I feel like home. I get to know lots of new friends and they are very nice to me since we all are from the same life background. I’m now in the second level of my beauty training that is equipped with other required classes like Khmer literacy, English, and computer skills. I think my life has changed a lot. I have never thought of getting a skill or be anyone better. But Friends-International has changed my perspective of life. I do enjoy my training here and getting to learn new things every day”.
Theary, now 16, has high hopes to use her skills in the future to find a good job. She dreams of getting a big house where she can live happily with her mother and sisters.
It is only thanks to our generous supporters, such as CamboTicket and their customers, that Friends-International are able to build a future for children and young people in Cambodia. Thank you for your support.
*Name has been changed.
Phnom Penh is a fast-growing capital city in the middle of Southeast Asian crazy development trend and one may miss some of its unique characteristics, overlooking its beauties. Did you know that Phnom Penh is located in the confluence of three rivers: Mekong, Tonle Sap and Bassac? Stay tuned to know a little bit more about how they control the whole Cambodian way of living!
People living near the riverbank in Phnom Penh on floating houses. They have a slow-paced life as they are not even living in such a fast-paced capital!
All the three rivers have long history and importance in terms of commerce, development, transportation routes and survival itself. Some interesting facts:
- The Tonle Sap river comes from the lake with the same name (its means exactly the Great Lake). Its fishes are the main source of protein for Cambodia.
- The Mekong is the source of food and livelihood for nearly 60 million people along its whole course. It has the world’s largest freshwater fisheries. With 800 different native species, it is only second to the Amazon river in terms of biodiversity richness.
- The Mekong is the 10th longest river in the world: it starts in the Tibetian plateau, crossing China, Myanmar, Laos, Thailand and Cambodia, ending up into the so-called Mekong Delta in southern Vietnam.
Local crossing the river on a tiny boat!
The Tonle Sap lake, is the largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia with a complex life cycle along the year. From November to end of May, the water flow goes from the lake down to the river until Phnom Penh, where it joins the Mekong. This lowers the water level of the lake and marks the Cambodian dry season. Now, at the beginning of June, it reaches a perfect equilibrium and the river literally stops flowing. From mid June to October, the water starts flowing reverse, coming from the Mekong up to the Tonle Sap river towards the lake, filling it again. You can have a look on a diagram of this changes in flow here.
This change in the flow shapes Cambodian seasons and its cycle throughout the year (agricultural crops, spiritual festivals, etc). A famous Khmer proverb says “When the water rises, the fish eat the ant – when the water recedes, the ant eat fish”. Apparently a local version of what goes around comes around! It inspired also a famous work of Mak Remissa, one of the best Cambodian photographers of his generation. Take a look at it here.
Another important fact is that, from here onwards the Mekong Delta starts, with the river dividing in more and more branches.
The Royal Palace and the Silver Pagoda mark the importance of the area and the riverside itself is one of the highlight of the city. It is a very popular place to hang out with family and friends. Don’t miss the gardens in front of Royal Palace in the evening, perfect to spot the local lifestyle or do some street photography. Here it takes place the important Water Festival, a 3-days festival with a traditional river race! Every November, tousands of people gather on the riverbank to watch the beautiful and long boats passing by.
An old cruise boat now forsaken on the river bank of Tonle Sap.
Finally, we still have to mention the third one in the confluence in Phnom Penh: the Bassac river. It starts here and crosses Vietnam’s border, where it is called Hậu River. Bassac river is in fact the main way connecting Cambodia and Vietnam. Along its route there are many different islands that you can explore. Probably none of them is as interesting as Koh Dach, or Silk Island though!
Koh Dach stands exactly in the converging point between Mekong and Tonle Sap. Have a look at this other article from our blog for some info on it.
If you are curious on how people live near the Tone Sap lake, read this other one. We wrote it during our trip through Kampong Khlaeng, not far away from Siem Reap. Don’t miss it if you are passing nearby!
Unfortunately it is not all a bed of roses: the “development at all costs” happening in Asia changes the rivers quickly. The high consumption of electricity in the major cities is forcing a dams building marathon that, consequently, manipulates the river flow, cuts in the fishes migration and evicts the population living in the riverbanks. If you would like to get more information about this issue, check here.
Local fisherman on its boat. With some bargaining and basic Khmer skills, you can hire it and visit the floating houses between Mekong and Tonle Sap.
Hope this article gave you some more information on these three beautiful rivers that make Phnom Penh such a special capital. You should not go out of the city without taking a cruise or hire a boat from the fishermen! Look for them on the other side of the river after crossing the Japanese Friendship Bridge! This is one of the few places in the world where a river changes its flow over the year. A unique must see:)
Living in a city, it can be challenging to keep yourself healthy and to find a perfect balance between your body and mind. This is especially true in a place like Phnom Penh. Here traffic, pollution and our work-life balance could be a bit overwhelming! The best way to deal with this is of course travelling. There is no need of much more with so many incredible places available in Cambodia for a quick weekend escape! However, in those weekends where you really have to stay in town, or even during the week, Yoga can be a great way to relax and find some peace of mind in this fast pace environment. Have a look at these centers to do Yoga in Phnom Penh, come to try it and connect with your body and mind!
One great option is Yoga Phnom Penh by Azahar Foundation. They have drop in classes for 9$ and classes with new Khmer teachers for a minimum donation of 5$. It is open every day, except Fridays and Sunday’s afternoons. They deliver Yoga Basics, Vinyasa Flow, Knoff Yoga, Fly Fit and Fly Yoga. On top of that they train teachers, in case you want to pass to the next level! More info here.
Definitely one of our favorites is Krama Yoga, a social enterprise providing both Yoga classes and outreach programs to some of the most poor or exploited communities in the country.
In their Nataraj studio you will find everyday classes of different practices: Yoga Basics, Ashtanga Yoga, Iyengar Yoga, Yoga Flow, Restorative Yoga, Pre-Natal Yoga, Kundalini Yoga, Community Yoga. They also do Yoga for stiff shoulders, if you have a job that force you to spend too much time seated working on a computer! Drop in classes for 9$ to foreigners and 6$ to Khmers. They also offer many different passes for regular users. Don’t forget also that with these money you are supporting a social enterprise and its important work!
They offer also also Yoga retreats, workshops and other events, such as museum tours with Yoga! Regarding their social program, every month they give 75 outreach Yoga classes to more than 300 kids. Most of them come from underprivileged backgrounds and survived traumatic experiences, such as human trafficking, violence and sex exploitation. They use Yoga as an unique tool to heal and give back their deserved peace of mind! You can read more about their interesting and pioneer social works here. Find more info about their classes and events here.
In Samata Health Wellness Studio you can find classes of Kundalini Yoga, Post-Natal exercises, Back Foundation Yoga, Pilates. Check here for info on their classes.
In The Place Fitness Center you will find: Hatha Yoga, Ashtanga Yoga, Yoga Balance, Vinyasa Yoga, Yoga Flow, Yoga Therapy, Hatha Vinyasa, Hot Yoga, Streching Yoga, Gentle Yoga, Power Yoga (more info here). If you are interested in Kundalini Yoga or Breathing Meditation, have a look at Kundalini Yoga Cambodia House.
Even at Showbox there are Flow Yoga classes every Tuesday and Thursday at 6.30pm and Yoga Basics every Sunday at 5pm. Check also Essence of Health for other possible treatments and healing practices.
Hope this list gave you some ideas on where to find Yoga classes in Phnom Penh. Relax and rewind with these opportunities to connect with your body and mind without getting out of town!
Koh Kong is the nearest province to Thai border, surrounded by the sea on one side and by the magnificent Cardamoms mountains on the other side. It is an amazing place with intact natural beauty and far away from the main touristic routes.
The main city of the province is Koh Kong city, where you can start most of the excursions. Koh Kong is 5 to 7 hours away from Phnom Penh and the only way to get there is taking the road from Sihanoukville or Phnom Penh. Two bus companies are operating: Virak Buntham (which has an office in Koh Kong city) and Olong Pich, which pass by Sihanoukville first. If you want to fully discover this part of Cambodia you need 3 to 4 days, depending on where you come from and head after.
We arrived there on a Friday night, taking a taxi from Phnom Penh, and we went directly to Rithy guesthouse, where I had booked a room. I choose to book at Rithy’s because he is also organizing a lot of tours in the province.
Koh Kong Island & Mangrove Forest
On the first day, we did the Koh Kong island tour: it is a one-day excursion to discover Koh Kong Island. This island is still preserved from tourism and genuinely natural. At first I wanted to spend a night there but none of the hotels answered me on time. There are two hotels on the island: Koh Kong Island Resort and White Sand Villa. If you still want to spend a night on the island, Rithy tour is organizing a 2 days tour on the island where you either sleep in a hammock on the beach or in the only village of the island with the local community.
Coming back to my trip, we spend 2 or 3 hours on the island chilling and eating an excellent grilled BBQ fish, well prepared by our guides! Our group was really nice, which made the day even better! It was even more appreciated when we had to support each other trying to get back on the boat because of the very wavy sea. I almost lost my shoes!!
On the way back, we stopped at the mangrove forest which was really nice especially with the sunset.
Talking about that, be very careful with the sun: it is really hard in this region, especially if you are on the sea and my friend got some blisters because of it. In order to visit the mangrove, you stop at some point with the boat and you walk for around 10 minutes, then the boat is taking you back on another side. At the end of the day, coming back to the pier, we watched the sunset there with a beer. What else do you need?
Koh Konh Island
Trekking, a night in the jungle & Tatai Waterfall
On the second day we went for a 2 days jungle trek. Don’t worry it is not difficult, everyone that is not 80 years old or hasn’t done sport for ages can do it!
You start at 8am and they bring you by car to the starting point (there is another option for these 2 days: you can a boat in the mangrove and do the hike up to a really good viewpoint). From the starting point we walked 4 to 5 hours with frequent stops all near a river where you can refresh yourself. We ate on the way and we arrived to the camp around 3pm leaving us plenty of time to enjoy this amazing experience. Then it was a great pleasure and a unique experience to swim in the natural swimming pool in front of the camp after this tough day! The camp is just near the river and in the middle on the nature, cutting you out from the rest of the world (also because you don’t have any network!).
Our Jungle Camp
In the evening we did a fire camp with our guides and spent a really good time trying to understand their card game, which was at the end a Cambodian version of my French game card « the President ». At the end of the evening, we were watching the stars exactly as we were in an astronomy observatory.
Delicious food and our natural swimming pool
The day after we woke up after the night in the hammock, which were quite comfortable for me and I was not even cold (on the contrary, my friends were freezing, probably also because I brought my sleeping bag). Then, we took our breakfast, did a quick dive in the swimming pool and started walking back. There, a car brought us to the Tatai waterfall, which were pretty nice. You can access by paying 4000 riels the entrance.
For our last night, I had booked at Neptune bungalow, along the Tatai River. It was the cheapest one because the other hotels are resorts so a little too expensive. Even Neptune was not so cheap because the bungalow for 2 was 40$ for the night (but you can be 4 if you want). The owner is a very sweet German guy, he cooks for you really good meals and organize excursions like Tatai waterfall or tours on the river. To get there you have to go to the Tatai Bridge, call him and an old Khmer man is taking you there. In the morning we did a little kayaking (you can go up to a small waterfall just within 30m which is really nice!) and swam in the river. This day was really unique and nice because we were totally alone!
Small waterfall near the river
In the end it was time to go back to Phnom Penh, to real life and to work after this great experience.
Going to Koh Kong is really doing something different than the traditional places everyone is visiting in Cambodia. It is a great preserved natural place, that everyone should experience having some time in Cambodia.
This travel memoir has been written by Marie, French expat living in Phnom Penh. Thank you for your precious tips on Koh Kong!
< Original version in French below! >
Koh Kong est la province située en bordure de la Thaïlande. Elle est bordée par la mer tout en étant entourée par la gigantesque et impressionnante chaine de montagnes des Cardamones. C’est un endroit fantastique qui a gardé tout son charme naturel et reste encore préservé du tourisme
La ville principale de la province est Koh Kong city à partir de laquelle vous pouvez commencer la plupart des excursions à travers la province. Elle se situe à 5 à 7 heures de bus depuis Phnom Penh. En effet, les seules routes pour y accéder viennent de Sihanoukville et Phnom Penh. Deux compagnies de bus desservent cette destination : Virak Buntham (qui possède un bureau à Koh Kong ce qui est plutôt pratique) et Olong Pich, qui passe par Sihanoukville avant. Si vous voulez profiter pleinement de cette partie du Cambodge vous aurez besoin de 3 à 4 jours en fonction de l’endroit d’où vous venez et de l’endroit où vous allez.
Nous sommes arrivés là bas vendredi soir après avoir pris un taxi privé depuis Phnom Penh. Arrivant tard, nous sommes directement allé à Rithy Guesthouse où j’avais réservé une chambre. J’avais choisi cette guesthouse parce que Rithy organise aussi diffèrent type d’excursion à travers la province de Koh Kong.
Le premier jour, nous avons l’excursion en 1 jour sur l’ile de Koh Kong. C’est une ile encore très naturelle qui reste préservée du tourisme. Au début je voulais y dormir mais quand j’ai essayé, aucun des hôtels de l’ile ne m’a répondu. Il y a deux hôtels sur l’ile : Koh Kong Island Resort et White Sand Villa. Si vous voulez tout de même dormir sur l’ile, Ritchie tour propose des excursions de 2 jours sur l’ile où vous dormez soit dans des hamacs sur la plage soit chez l’habitant dans le seul village de l’ile.
Revenons à nos moutons et à notre journée d’excursion! Nous avons passé 2 à 3 heures sur l’ile à discuter, se baigner et manger un excellent poisson au barbecue préparé par nos deux guides. Notre groupe était très sympa ce qui a rendu la journée encore meilleure! Cela a été d’autant plus vrai quand nous avons dû nous soutenir pour réussir à remonter sur le bateau alors que la mer était déchainée! J’ai même faille perdre mes chaussures!
Sur le chemin du retour, nous nous sommes arrêtée pour visiter la mangrove. C’était vraiment exceptionnel cette entrée dans la mangrove avec la lumière de la fin d’après-midi ! Faites d’ailleurs très attention au soleil dans cette région et spécialement sur l’eau, mon amie a eu des cloques à cause du soleil! Pour visiter la mangrove le bateau nous a laissé à un certain point, nous avons marché environ 10 minutes dans la mangrove et le bateau nous a récupéré à un autre point.
A la fin de la journée en revenant au ponton, nous nous sommes offerts une bière en regardant le couchée de soleil. Que demandez d’autre?!
Le deuxième jour nous sommes partis pour un trek de 2 jours dans la jungle. Ne vous inquiétez pas ce n’est pas impossible à faire, à part si vous avez 80 ans ou que vous n’avez pas fait de sport depuis des siècles. Vous partez à 8h du matin et ils vous emmènent en jeep jusqu’au point de départ (il y a une autre option pour cette excursion où vous prenez un bateau à travers la mangrove et vous marchez jusqu’à un très beau point de vue). Depuis le point de départ nous avons marché pendant 4 à 5 heures avec des arrêts fréquents, tous près d’une rivière afin de se rafraichir. Nous avons mangé pendant un de ces stops et nous sommes arrivés au camp vers 3h de l’après-midi nous laissant plein de temps pour profiter de cette expérience.
Là cela a été une superbe et unique expérience de se baigner dans la piscine naturelle en face du camp après cette dure journée! Le camp est juste à côté de la rivière et au milieu de la nature nous coupant du reste du monde (en grande partie aussi a cause du manqué de réseau!)
Le soir nous avons fait un feu de camp avec nos guides et nous avons passé un super moment en essayant de comprendre leur jeu de cartes qui au final n’était qu’une version différente du jeu de cartes français “Le Président”. Nous avons terminée la soirée en regardant les étoiles comme si nous étions dans un observatoire astronomique.
Après avoir passé la nuit dans nos hamacs, ce qui était plutôt confortable au final (peut être aussi parce que j’avais mon sac de couchage ce qui m’a évitée d’avoir froid contrairement à mes amis), nous avons pris notre petit déjeuner, fait un dernier petit plongeon dans la piscine naturelle et recommencez à marcher jusque notre point de départ. De là-bas une voiture nous a emmené jusqu’au chutes d’eau de la Tâtai qui sont très sympa! Vous pouvez y accéder par vos propres moyens moyennant 4000 riels pour l’entrée.
Pour notre dernière nuit, j’avais réservé une nuit le long de la rivière Tatai au Neptune Bungalow. C’est le moins cher des hôtels situés le long de la rivière car tous les autres sont des ressorts donc hors de prix. Et même le Neptune n’était pas si peu cher car nous avons payé le bungalow 40 dollars la nuit pour 2 (mais vous pouvez y dormir à 4). Le propriétaire est un Allemand très sympathique qui cuisine pour vous des plats réellement bons. Il peut aussi organiser des excursions comme les chutes d’eau de la Tatai ou des tours sur la rivière. Pour se rendre là-bas nous sommes allés jusqu’au pont Tatai, nous l’avons appelé et un vieux monsieur khmer est venu nous chercher pour nous emmener au Neptune bungalow.
Le matin, nous avons fait un peu de kayak (vous pouvez aller jusqu’à une petite chute d’eau qui est à 30 minutes en kayak) et nous nous sommes baignées dans la rivière. Ces deux jours étaient vraiment super car nous étions juste toutes les deux sans personne d’autre dans la guesthouse ni même le long de la rivière.
Et le temps est venu de rentrer à Phnom Penh pour retrouver la vie réelle et le travail après cette expérience super! Aller à Koh Kong est vraiment faire quelque chose de diffèrent au Cambodge en dehors des circuits traditionnels. C’est un superbe endroit préservé où chacun devrait se rendre si il a du temps à consacrer au Cambodge.
Like many other Asian cities, Phnom Penh is growing fast. A rising economy and foreign investment are changing forever the face of its streets – with its good and bad sides.
If it’s your first time in Cambodia you will not have terms of comparison, but everything in this country is changing incredibly quickly. Come back after a couple of years (and we’re sure it will happen: it is difficult to come here only once!) and you will be able to see an incredible number of new skyscrapers, massive shopping malls and luxury office or residential buildings.
June will be an interesting month to learn more about these changes: the art collective Sa Sa Art Projects is organizing various related activities.
Don’t miss the opportunity to get to know more about Phnom Penh’s architecture and urban development!
Koh Pich, also known as Diamond Island, is the perfect place to see the clash of architecture styles and influences in the recent development of Phnom Penh.
Since the 40’s the city has been growing a lot. The only exception has been the Khmer Rouge period, where the whole population had to leave, turning Phnom Penh into a ghost town.
During the colonial period, the French developed a lot of infrastructure and a comprehensive water system in order to prevent flooding, deal with the sewage and conquer land from the river.
In the 60’s and after the independence, the new king Norodom Sihanouk appointed the famous architect Vann Molyvann as the head figure of the country’s urban development and his unique style of modern architecture with a Khmer taste spread along the city. Today you can see some of his works in places such as Olympic Stadium, Chaktomuk Conference Hall and Institute of Foreign Languages (in the Royal University of Phnom Penh).
The Olympic Stadium is one of the most iconic infrastructures in the city (but no, they never organized any Olympic games here!)
After Khmer Rouge, the city kept expanding. An example is the construction of the artificial island Koh Pich (also known as Diamond Island) in front of Phnom Penh’s downtown.
As a consequence, the river had to take land from other places to keep flowing and many families had to leave their houses. Other massive updates are the recent filling of lakes, such as Boeung Kak , with sand, for further construction. The French built these lakes as a way to deal with the excess of water during rainy season. Moreover, the French put in place a complex system of canals and dikes to manage the fact that the whole city is built above wet lands. As a result, nowadays there are more flooding and the relationship between Phnom Penh and its three rivers, Mekong, Bassac and Tonle Sap, is more and more difficult.
To have a deeper understanding of the situation, take a look at the different events planned for the next month by Sa Sa Art Projects and Vann Molyvann Project, in the multi-exhibitions “Sensing the Capital” project. It highlights not only the changes in the city’s urbanism but also their consequences in terms of social and environmental impact.
The new space of Sa Sa Art Projects, with its exhibition “Kraanh Norneal”.
Check the “Kraanh Norneal” exhibition in the new space of Sa Sa Art Projects, open until June 18th (on street 350, near the corner with street 95): it exposes contemporary artworks (from video to sculpture, from photography to digital illustration) by young Cambodian artists such as Eng Rithchandaneth, Mok Sombo, Sao Sreymao, Sok Chanrado and Tan Vatey.
In their old gallery, inside the White Building (on Sothearos Boulevard), you can follow the process of the city conquering land from the river through its constructions, with the “Genealogy of Bassac” exhibition by Pen Sereypagna (until 31 of May). This is also one of the last chances to see the iconic White Building from the inside. Like for many other Khmer building of the 60’s, the demolition of the White Building is already planned and it will be another victim of extreme construction.
From June 21th to 27th in the Olympic Stadium, the exhibition “The National Sports Complex: Legacy and Vision” will show the history and future of this famous building from Vann Molyvann. On June 24th, Roungkong Project will organize a walking guided tour to old cinemas in the city, a unique opportunity to see other pearls from the exquisite Khmer architecture.
In conclusion, on June 25th, artist Pen Sereypagna will manage a workshop in the new art space Kon Len Khnhom on street 360, tracing the evolution of Phnom Penh through its maps from 1940 until now.
Sculpture by young Cambodian artist Eng Rithchandaneth, part of the “Sensing the Capital” multi-exhibition project.
Is is definitely a month full of interesting activities to understand the history of the city, its architecture and urban development. So, if you pass by Phnom Penh, make sure not to miss these events. Check Sa Sa Art Projects facebook page for more info!
We know that the charm of Kampot has the power of relaxing even the most hectic traveler and the reasons to stay in town to enjoy its river and calmness are more than many. But we also know that, as soon as you get out of the city, Kampot’s surroundings offer a lot to explore and marvel at. Stay tuned from some suggestions on where to go!
Getting out of the city is a great way to meet some locals and experience a genuine Cambodian lifestyle.
Kep: a quiet coastal town with memories of a glorious past
Of course the first place to mention is Kep, the small and quiet coastal town popular since the sixties, when it was a resort area for rich Khmer families. Famous for its beach and its seafood market (crabs are so well known that they even deserve a statue in their honor on the sea in front of the town). Kep is also as a getaway to take the boat to Rabbit island, or Koh Tonsai, as known by Cambodians.
Koh Tonsai or Rabbit Island: palm trees, hammocks and glowing pankton
And here we go, Koh Tonsai is our next spot on this list! An island just a half hour boat ride from the coast, filled with nature and perfect to relax on a hammock, sunbath or swim in this gorgeous ocean. The beach is especially gorgeous on some nights, when the plankton appears in the sea and glows in the dark. Besides that, you can engage in snorkeling, fishing or trekking.
Natural Parks and Mountains: amazing views and local fauna
Back to the mainland, near Kep you have a national park with an entrance ticket of just one dollar, perfect for spotting the local fauna and trekking in a pure rainforest jungle. You can breathe some fresh air and maybe take the opportunity for that exercise you were looking for after eating such delicious seafood in Kep! Moreover, there’s a wonderful place to watch the sunset called, appropriately, Sunset Rock.
If you are passionate about birds, you should not miss the Anlong Pring bird sanctuary, not far away as well.
Not only for nature lovers but also for riders, a beautiful day trip idea to go to Bokor Mountain with a motorbike. There you can enjoy the view and have fun driving its winding road. You will be able to find a bit of everything, from wildlife (Bokor is also part of a national park) to an old vacant and forgotten casino on the top of the mountain. Worth some mysterious pictures for your travel album, namely if you are going in a foggy day. And, well, if you are really trying to do some kind of tour along the mountains and parks around town, you still have the Phnom Sor, or White Mountain, in the north of Kampot.
Traeuy Koh: local villages and salt fields
Tired of trekking and mountains? Much closer to the city you have Traeuy Koh, a small island just across one of Kampot’s bridges. Another option is to visit the salt fields in the surroundings which, depending on the time of the year, can provide you with one of the most incredible setting for photography in the whole country. Just imagine very shallow salt lakes where the water perfectly reflects the sky and you can picture it!
Kampot Pepper: a legend for a reason
There are also the well known farms of delicious Kampot pepper, famous all over the world for its distinguished taste. If you want to buy some, only trust the farms themselves. The pepper sold in Kampot’s markets is more often than not a fake one, cheaper and produced in Vietnam.
The famous Kampot pepper.
Secluded places: a secret lake, misterious caves, hidden temples
Not far away you can also find a beautiful lake, which somehow got named as the Secret Lake. If you are really into this kind of secluded places and want a beach only for yourself go to Angkoul beack! Ask your guesthouse or checkout the maps (typically available on bars and cafés in Kampot). If, in the other hand, suntanning is not your thing and you are missing is some cool shade to break the Southeast Asian weather, check out the caves around Kampong Trach. Another interesting place is Phnom Sorsia, a Buddhist hill temples complex, a cave filled with bats and another one where you can see limestone stalagmites that resemble elephants (hence its name of Elephant Cave).
Crossing the border: your bridge to Vietnam
Last but not least, a good option can be crossing the border to Vietnam, which is just 40km from Kampot. The border is Prek Chak on the Cambodian side, and Xa Xia in Vietnam side. Ha Tien is a nice town nearby, around 20 minutes from the border and a lovely place to start exploring the country. It is also a good spot if you are on your way to Phu Quoc island, highly recommended and not so far away. Just bear in mind that you can not make your visa on arrival on the border to Vietnam, you should have it already with you (the nearest place to Kampot to deal with the visa process is Sihanoukville).
As soon as you pass the border you can check some Vietnamese “street market art”.
Hope you got some ideas on where to go if you are in Kampot and looking for something different. Its surroundings are definitely worth to see! Check out Camboticket website if you need to book tickets for your trip. You can even book tickets from Kampot to Ha Tien and other places in Vietnam.